Why do Middle Easterners Hate Americans? – Abu Dhabi

Preamble: As I introduced in an earlier Blog, these next few Blog posts recount, in detail and as an American, very real yet different experiences I lived through in various Middle Eastern countries that speak directly to what many claim to be either a very provocative myth or fact: Why do Middle Easterners Hate Americans? From watercooler claims to media reports, hyperbole or fake news, I will substantiate what I say by offering photo evidence or documentation, and may the chips fall where they may…

This Blog is about 1 day in Abu Dhabi.

While to me Dubai seemingly represented the future of the Emirates, or greater Middle East, the Emirates Palace and Abu Dhabi represented Emirate history. Cultural reverence. The foundation of Emirate Monarchy.

11 April 2015 -- morning: Beautiful Zivile -- we’ve been together for 3 years -- came to visit me from the States as I’ve been living in Dubai establishing a new business and in the spirit of full disclosure, she was nervous to visit the Emirates as unmarried couples sharing a hotel room can go to jail if found out. Even worse, and you want to go to Abu Dhabi? She’s been reading all the stuff on how much more stodgy Abu Dhabi is than Dubai, but I’m not one who buys into media hyperbole or propaganda. Plus, I’ve never really seen Abu Dhabi since in-and-out visits for business meetings and flight transfers through the airport doesn’t count -- although the Abu Dhabi airport is truly a magnificent work of art (link). Nonetheless, I couldn’t just dismiss her concern, because, what if she was right? I convinced her it would be fun so we rented a car and drove south from Dubai, past Jebel Ali, thru the desert, and to Abu Dhabi. The drive was quick (more about this later) and once in Abu Dhabi, we stopped at an office tower so she could use the rest room. I waited in the car.

I’m a huge F1 fan and I always wanted to see Yas Island in Abu Dhabi, where the F1 race is held. As I waited for Zivile, I saw a tall, elegant, Arab man walk toward his Range Rover parked directly in front of where I stopped by this office building. Just like a typical American, I jumped out of my car and asked him if he could show me how to get to Yas Island from where we were. He was very nice and seemingly not put off by the undaunting manner I approached him. As he pointed this way and then for me to go that way, Zivile walked up, and after a few seconds we both must have shown our confusion. He then pulled out his phone, the latest iPhone, opened his ‘maps” app and tried to help us better understand as there were driving restrictions near the Summer Palace of HE Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayad Al Nahyan. Still somewhat confused as I would never remember the directions, he asked to get the directions for me on my phone, an older iPhone, which I handed to him. I guess my phone didn’t have the same features, so I thanked the man for his help and as we were set to turn around toward our car, he said, “…here, take my phone.” Wait, WHAT?? He continued by saying, “…really, I’ve got lots of phones.” “…take it.” So, he handed me his phone, and wished us to have a great visit in Abu Dhabi, and then he left. ARE YOU KIDDING ME????

As this tall, elegant man, got in his car and drove away, Zivile and I were standing there with this man’s new iPhone. I was immediately aware that this phone contained everything -- emails, contacts, calls, addresses, whatever -- and he just gave it to me. He didn’t clear it first or somehow manipulate it as I was standing right next to him. INSANE!! I never met this man, didn’t even get his name, nothing. Crazy. I didn’t dare move away from his map app as I was afraid. Maybe he was someone important? What if I would have stumbled on something I shouldn’t see? How can I get rid of this phone? I couldn’t call him. He was gone. This office tower was huge and maybe he was just visiting like we were. Who was he? I didn’t know who to leave it with, so I held on to it. Now I’m a bit nervous. Zivile was nervous but smiling at this man’s generosity. We were already having a great day and couldn’t believe it. I still didn’t move away from his map app, wouldn’t dare, but wouldn’t allow the iPhone to dim either by constantly touching the map screen, so we drove toward Yas Island and then all over Abi Dhabi. A great morning…

11 April 2015 -- midday: After driving around and seeing Abu Dhabi, we impulsively decided to stop at the Emirate Palace Hotel and see it (link). We read about it and it was majestic. By this time, the man’s iPhone went dark for non-use, and I didn’t try to click and wake it up. How do I get rid of this phone? Who was this man? We read that the Emirate Palace was built to promote national prestige and the cultural heritage of the Emirates, and wanted to see it, even though it was converted into a hotel operated by Kempinski Hotels sometime in 2005. The Emirates Palace Hotel was amazing. Opulent. Clean. It had an aura about it that was indescribable. While to me Dubai seemingly represented the future of the Emirates, or greater Middle East, the Emirates Palace and Abu Dhabi represented Emirate history. Cultural reverence. The foundation of Emirate Monarchy.

While walking thru the vast lobby and arrays of things to see, there was also an Art Galley or Museum prominently featured or set-up for visitors to tour thru, so we did. We then came to two exhibits that to this day are the most impactful pieces I’ve ever seen -- more because where they were displayed, and what each says or represents. Again, we are in the Emirate Palace, the cultural heart of the Emirate Kingdom, in stodgy Abu Dhabi, where the Ruler of Abu Dhabi, with a wave of his hand, can remove this or that, or imprison unmarried couples sharing a hotel room if found out. The first piece was a display of 7 photographs, each about 2 feet square. They were arranged in a way for the viewer to follow a progression from the first photo to the last and then, perhaps, back again. The photos were of a man and woman closely sitting next to each other, perhaps they are a married couple, it didn’t say. In the first photo, the man is dressed in what I assume to be casual local attire, and the woman was in a full burka -- not uncommon to Abu Dhabi or really anywhere in the Middle East. But as the viewer progresses from the first photo to the last, the man becomes dressed in a full burka and the woman in casual attire -- not something I ever expected to view in an Art Museum in Abu Dhabi. The piece was titled “What if” (link). Can you imagine? Please remember that this is in 2015, not in 2025. In Abu Dhabi not Dubai…

The second exhibit initially reminded me of a shadowbox or fun school project when we were kids -- where you take a shoebox and convert it into something you want to display, or a story you want to tell. Sometimes, the same story is told from a different perspective depending on how you look at the shadowbox. We walked up to this exhibit and it looked like a bunch of books randomly displayed on a table with a light shining on it. OK. But when taking a closer look, never closer than about eight feet as it was roped off, all the books seemed to me were about September 11, 2001, or 9/11. Every book as far as I could tell. Different books, all different shapes and sizes, all seemingly about the pain caused by the terrorist attack on 9/11. It grabbed me. And when stepping further back from the rope and taking a look at the exhibit from a different perspective, there was a shadow from the light over the books that seemed to display the New York skyline with the Twin Towers in the background (link). Wow. I was speechless.  

11 April 2015 -- evening: While still at the Emirate Palace, Zivile and I were choosing between a half-a-dozen amazing restaurants -- all offering different cuisines -- where we can enjoy dinner. I still had this man’s phone. We settled on a restaurant that served domestic Emirati food. I forgot the name, but it had a beautiful outdoor garden area, and wonderful food. We were reminiscing about our unbelievable day, and just as desert was about to be served, up walked this tall, very elegant man. THE MAN WHO GAVE US HIS PHONE! I jumped up, and he motioned for me to please sit. I immediately asked him to please join us and gave him his iPhone back, and he then directed the maître d’ to add a chair to our table. Wow. How did he find us? I didn’t find it necessary to tell him that I didn’t play with his phone, nor did he ask. I’m sure he knew. I now know that “Find your phone” was a feature in iPhones back then, but it wasn’t available on mine, so it never occurred to me that he could find me that way. I had an older iPhone.

Over the next two hours, the three of us enjoyed an amazing conversation -- and he did share with us his name, and that he worked for the Emirati government. We talked about our cultures, politics, geopolitical issues, societal joys and fears, how we view the future of our respective countries, and how we embrace the past. We also talked about geopolitical friendships and threats. It was surreal. After a while then, he got up, said that he enjoyed meeting us, shook my hand, and walked off. A moment or so later, I motioned for our waiter to bring me the bill, and he said there was no bill. It’s all been taken care of.

What a day. Absolutely amazing.

Again, who does this? Who does this for a random American? Clearly, a confident, magnanimous, sincere, and gracious man who loves his country and all peoples, without any prejudice. And every time I hear someone talk about the Emirates or being somewhere they’ve never been, or claim some oppressive societal norm that they’ve never experienced, I respond by recounting what I’ve seen, what I’ve experienced firsthand, and then I show them photos to prove it.

11 April 2015 -- epilogue: About that quick drive to Abu Dhabi; I rented a Bentley GT for the day. Why not. I never saw a police car on the road to Abu Dhabi, nor on the way back, and certainly not the Bugatti or Ferrari with flashing green lights. But I did get a supplement invoice from the exotic rental car place a couple days later with a speeding violation that I needed to pay…   

So Why do Middle Easterners Hate Americans? They don’t. Just the contrary, and this American is so very grateful for our friends in the Middle East. Some will insist this, too, is anecdotal. OK. Perhaps. Look for my next Blog post about my 2 weeks in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia…